Susur Lee, chef, restaurateur (born 1 January 1958, Hong Kong).
Susur Lee, chef, restaurateur (born 1 January 1958, Hong Kong). Recipient of the prestigious CAA Five Diamond Award in Cannes, France, and slated by Food & Wine magazine as one of the “ten chefs of the millennium,” Toronto-based Susur Lee is a celebrated pioneer of modern Chinese cuisine and “fusion” cooking.
Early Life and Education
The youngest of six children, Lee preferred physical work to classroom education, getting his first full time job at 14 years old as a dishwasher at a Pekingese restaurant. He credits outings with his father to various dim sum restaurants in Hong Kong as inspiring his love and curiosity for food.
After falling in love with the tools and sounds of the kitchen, Lee began an apprenticeship at the elegant Peninsula Hotel in Hong Kong when he was 16. There he absorbed the art of European cuisine, rising to the position of chef saucier by the time he was 19 years old.
Lee immigrated to Toronto in 1978 and continued cooking and working his way up to the executive chef spot at a number of restaurants. His plans to move back to Hong Kong in 1983 took a tragic turn when his wife, Marilou Covey, left a few weeks before Lee and died tragically on Korean Air flight 007.
In 1987, Lee opened his first restaurant, Lotus. There he blended Chinese cuisine and culinary tradition with European techniques. The tasting menu at the 12-table restaurant soon won him accolades from food critics around the world, including Zagat’s proclamation of Lee as a “culinary genius.” After a decade of rave reviews, Lee closed Lotus, taking three years off to “re-energize” in Singapore, where he consulted for the Tung Lok restaurant group.
In 2000, he returned to Toronto and opened Susur. His second wife, designer Brenda Bent-Lee, oversaw the restaurant’s interior. Such mouth-watering and inventive dishes as Lee’s famous lobster with black truffles, Qianpang Xie-style egg white and uni sauces and crispy dried scallops drew deep-pocketed foodies and critics from around the world. In 2004, he opened Lee, a more affordable and casual restaurant. At the peak of its eight-year run, Susur made Restaurant magazine’s list of the world’s 50 best restaurants and helped Lee earn a place as one of Food & Wine magazine’s “Ten chefs of the Millennium.”
In 2006, Lee became the second Canadian chef to appear in the Food Network’s hit show, Iron Chef America, tying with Iron Chef Bobby Flay.
In 2008, Lee answered the call of global hoteliers, closing Susur and opening Shang in the new Thompson LES hotel in New York City. Six months later, in 2009, he opened Zentan in Washington, D.C.’s Donovan House. Susur’s 19-ingredient Singaporean-style slaw was a popular staple at both establishments, but both restaurants drew mixed reviews and were shut by 2013.
The Singapore arm of his restaurant empire, Tung Lok Heen (formerly Chinois), opened in 2010 at Hotel Michael. That same year saw Lee battle for the title of Top Chef: Masters on Bravo TV, where he tied for second place in the season finale.
Meanwhile, back in Toronto, the two elder of Lee’s three sons, Kai and Levi Bent-Lee, began training in the management and operations at Lee and Lee Lounge (which opened in 2011 as a laid-back extension of the Toronto flagship). In September 2012, the family opened Bent with Kai and Levi managing the place, their father overseeing the kitchen, and Bent-Lee in charge of the design.
In 2014, Lee appeared as one of the judges on Chopped Canada, a culinary competition airing on The Food Network Canada. He planned to open two new restaurants in 2014: Luckee, a modern Chinese restaurant in Toronto’s SoHo Metropolitan Hotel in March, and an unnamed haute Chinese restaurant inside China Club New York at One World Trade Center in 2015.
Activism and Charitable Involvement
In 2013, Lee signed on to be the face of the Toronto District School Board’s campaign to overhaul its cafeteria menus, called “My Food My Way.” He has raised funds for the James Beard Foundation, The Centre for Addiction and Mental Health, and regularly lends his skills to charity events.